First impressions
As soon as I arrived via the ferry, which was really a speedboat, I felt my nervous system drop down a few notches. The calm, island vibe washed over me, as I was greeted by the pelicans flopping around near the fishing boats waiting for a handout, and the sea lions resting on the docks. After paying the $10 entry fee, I grabbed my roller bag and walked ten minutes down the road to my first hotel, The Isabela Beach House.
Located on the beach, near some mangroves, my room was decorated with a mermaid theme. It was spacious, clean and modern.
Once settled in, I walked down the beach to explore and find a place for dinner. Folks were gathering to view the sunset, which I soon discovered was one of the main nightly activities on the island.
Epic sunset!
As I meandered down the sandy path, perusing the various menus, I decided to try the Beach Restaurant, and enjoyed an amazing view while savoring the tuna tartar; raw tune stacked on top of chopped avocado, with a side of chips.
It took me a few days to realize one of the reasons why I felt so much more calm here than on Santa Cruz Island (and back home, or just about anywhere else in the world, for that matter) it's because there are so few cars here. There are a few small pickup trucks that serve as taxis, but most people get around on mopeds, bikes, or walking. The town is so small that you can walk anywhere in about 20 minutes.
On my second day, I rented a bike and rode about 3 miles to the Wall Of Tears, stopping along the way to see the Pink flamingos, cool off in a swimming hole among the mangroves, view the island from a high point, and observed the giant tortise soaking in a big puddle. It was a great ride.
Logistics: the road was mostly packed sand and dirt, but there were a few places with loose gravel, especially on the short but steep hills. I walked my bike on those. The ride out was slightly uphill, but the ride back was much faster and fun! Bring plenty of water and wear a swim suit if you wanna cool off in the little swimming hole. The actual wall of tears was basically a bunch of rocks stacked up to make a wall, but the history behind it was moving.
It was constructed between 1945 and 1959 by prisoners in the penal colony on the island, which had been established by President José María Velasco Ibarra in 1944, using infrastructure left by the US military after World War II.
Another free and fun activity is snorkeling at Concha de Perla, located down a boardwalk path near the boat dock. You can rent snorkeling gear from the little food kiosk if you don't have your own for $8
The wall is about 8 m (25 ft) tall and is said to have been the cause of thousands of deaths during its construction. Locals call it the Wall of Tears because it is said to emanate eerie cries and have a heavy energy surrounding it. -Wikipedia
Another free and fun activity is snorkeling at Concha de Perla, located down a boardwalk path near the boat dock. You can rent snorkeling gear from the little food kiosk if you don't have your own for $8
Once you pass by the sea lions guarding the path, you will see Marina iguanas hanging out on the dock. I saw turtles, penguins, rays, puffer fish, sea lions. Every day there was something different!
There are a few tours around the island, but I only did the kayaking in the afternoon, which was fun but I would recommend going in the morning when it's less windy.
The food has been mostly cheap and adequate. I don't think this island is known for the cuisine, but I enjoyed the simple but healthy meals like fish with coconut sauce, civiche, and tuna tartar. I tried a few other local specialties like the fresh and crispy empanadas, chocolate banana cake, and fresh fruit.
Everything is tourist-friendly, and they make it easy to stay on the designated paths so as not to disturb the wildlife.
Happy to answer any questions about this beautiful island!
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